[ in the mix ]
Glorious Glow
Today’s alpha hydroxy acids may
be the key to giving your clients
the results they desire.
“AHAs are
ideal for
use in spa
treatments,
as they both
exfoliate
and hydrate
the skin.”
ALTHOUGH THE SPA INDUSTRY IS CONSTANTLY
evolving, what hasn’t changed is the growing popularity of anti-aging treatments. The eternal quest
for the fountain of youth remains a top priority
for many spa-goers. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), a
group of chemical compounds derived from fruit,
milk, and sugar, have proven to be a key weapon in
the fight against aging and have long been touted
for their ability to smooth fine lines, unclog pores,
refine texture, and improve the overall condition
of the skin. “AHAs have been used as an exfoliation
technique dating back to the era of Cleopatra and
the use of milk baths,” says Aneta Merlino, spa
manager at The Spaahh at Hotel 1000 (Seattle),
where a Glycolic Peel Facial ($115, 60 minutes)
and a Glycolic Peel Add-on ($20) are staples of the
menu. Today, no spa menu is complete without at
least one AHA-based service incorporating fruit,
glycolic, lactic, or other available acids that treat a
variety of skin conditions.
According to dermatologist Craig Austin,
M.D., AHAs are ideal for use in spa treatments,
as they both exfoliate and hydrate the skin. Julia
Hunter, M.D., dermatologist and founder of
Skin-Fitness Plus (Beverly Hills, CA), is a fan of acids
that exfoliate in a healthy manner. “I love lactic,
malic, and tartaric acids, as the body has receptors
for these chemicals,” says Hunter. “Therefore, it
recognizes them and creates positive, not negative,
effects.” For instance, the Bioelements Lactic-Plus
Peel ($115, 60 minutes) at Sister’s Skin Care and
Waxing (Chicago) smoothes fine lines and wrinkles, improves dull and lifeless skin, and restores
elasticity. Ideal for thick skin, the treatment can be
customized five different ways to create a mild to
ultimate peeling-strength action.
Glycolic, the most popular of all acids, generates its fair share of debate. Because it doesn’t have a
receptor in the body and can trigger inflammation,
Hunter isn’t a fan. In fact, she cautions that glycolic
acid should never be used on thin, dry, and mature
skin because it can cause telangiectasia, also known
as dilated blood vessels of the skin. For others,
glycolic is the acid of choice. “I think glycolic acid is
the best because it is the smallest molecule and can
penetrate the skin more easily than other AHAs,
such as lactic or malic acid,” says Austin. “Glycolic
acid also attracts water, so it not only exfoliates but
also hydrates and rejuvenates the skin.”
At the Spa at Alderbrook at Alderbook Resort
& Spa (Union, WA), guests can opt for either the
Resurface “C” Facial ($160, 90 minutes), which
includes a 40 percent glycolic peel combined
with vitamin C, or the Age Renewal Treatment
Peel Facial ($160, 90 minutes), which involves a
lactic acid-based peel combined with Idebenone,
a potent antioxidant. “Generally, most guests have
something they would love to improve about their
skin,” says spa director Elizabeth Russell. “Whether
they are looking to address fine lines and wrinkles,
dullness, or a general loss of firmness to the skin, a
series of alpha hydroxy treatments is a perfect way
